Date: 28th August 08
Location: South Luangwe National Park, Zambia
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, very hot 38°c
Status: Enjoying life to the full….
An interrupted nights sleep with several awakenings in the night from various wildlife neighbours who visited our cap, or maybe I should say, their home! The closest of which was an adult elephant which touched the sides of the tent as he feasted on the branches right beside our heads. It was amazing as well as being a little scary to be quite so close to something so huge, and their not the quietest eaters either!
Up before sunrise again for a light breakfast, packed everything away and headed out to the park gate only 2kms away from the Flatdogs Camp. We paid our entrance fees which amounted to £12 each including the vehicle and started our hunt for the locals. With the sun low in the sky the heat of the day hadn’t kicked in so we spotted things easily in the first half of the drive including elephant, giraffe, all manner of antelope but no elusive predators!!
The tsetse flies were flippin terrible here though and after 20mins of being bitten all over we had to make the choice to close the windows and endure the heat instead but by this stage there were already 20ish of the critters in the truck and it was a slow process of squatting them before we were totally comfortable again, Rach was most efficient as a fly-squatter.
The heat of the day really started to kick in by mid morning and as most of the animals were hiding from the heat we decided to do the same and headed back out of the park calling at two of the other camps to check out their viability as our base for the next couple of nights but we’ve totally made the right choice with Flatdogs as it’s a class above the rest and offers the only location where the wildlife can walk right through the camp.
Had a cool down swim, caught up with running repairs on the truck and then started prepping the veg for our poitjke under the very watchful eye of the local monkey clan who decided to sit in the trees right by the truck waiting for an opportune moment to grab anything we’d left out!
As the sun went down dinner was ready so we scoffed it down offering some to our night guards and came to the bar to write this.
End of day location: Flatdogs Camp, Zambia
Distance covered: 67kms
Thursday, 28 August 2008
27th August 08
Date: 26th August 08
Location: Cahorra Bassa Dam, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, very hot, 36°c
Status: Rach feeling better, Colonel has a smashed window and I’m fine!
Up before the sunrise at 5.15am ready for another full day’s travel north. We had a bite of breakfast before hitting the road and took another drive past the dam wall, this time ot was even more impressive with huge plumes of spray being sent up illuminated by the sunrise from behind. Stunning.
The road from Songa to the main tarred road north is a good flat, pothole-less engineering road which you can travel at 100km/h on easily with hardly any traffic to get in your way. So I was cruising along it waving at every villager as I always do when a group of kids to the right of the road caught my attention. One of them had a catapult and as we cruised past, pulled back on it and let a stone fly towards the truck. It smashed into the side window about a foot behind my head, very narrowly missing my open window at neck height.
I jammed on the brakes and screeched the colonel to a halt, grabbed my machete and took off after them into the bush with Rach shouting “Be careful Ben!!”. In the time it had taken to stop they’d totally disappeared and rather than run around an area which was probably full of mines I decided to give up the pursuit and return to the truck.
I was furious but luckily I had fitted anti-smash film to all the windows in the UK and it had paid dividends, the window although smashed held firm and didn’t compromise the security of the truck. A local walking down the road stopped and speaking good English asked what was wrong, I explained to him what had happened and he walked with me to the nearest group of huts some 100m from the road. I explained to him hat had happened and he translated for the locals there directing is conversation to the village elder who understood and explained that he would find out who had done it and act accordingly. My description of the kid I’d seen running away wearing a red t-shirt should be enough to catch the little shit. Nothing more could be done about it so I said my thanks you’s and hit the road again. I’d done similar when I was younger and just about got away with it….remember the piece of string incident Mum and Dad!!
The temperatures rose throughout the day and as we approached Tete hit 35°c, it was a long hot drive to the border with Zambia but the road was in good condition so we made good time and arrived there just after 2.30pm. The usual border formalities were carried out but in an exceptionally efficient way on the Mozambique side and we were gone within 5 minutes.
On arrival in Zambia we expected a number of ‘additonal’ charges which are always levied on tourists and reluctantly paid the “carbon tax” and “road insurance” along with the $150 each for a one week visa!!! That’s too much money gone again!!
Drove for another two hours before arriving in Chipata and were astonished by the cost of things here….fuel is £1.44 per litre, more than the UK so lucky I’d filled the jerry cans up to give us enough range for the coming week! As we entered the town I spotted a scrap yard with a Land Rover in the yard and stopped to find out if they had any windows lying around, after a couple of phone calls the owner Trevor said come back tomorrow and he’d try and sort it out for me. Awesome, but not a guarantee!
Made for Dean’s Hillside Campsite owned by an Englishman and again were the only ones there! Weird trees in the garden whose seed pods exploded in the evening sun sounding like a golfer teeing off and making us jump everytime!
Tired after the long day so early to bed.
End of day location: Chipata, Zambia
Distance covered: 581kms
Location: Cahorra Bassa Dam, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, very hot, 36°c
Status: Rach feeling better, Colonel has a smashed window and I’m fine!
Up before the sunrise at 5.15am ready for another full day’s travel north. We had a bite of breakfast before hitting the road and took another drive past the dam wall, this time ot was even more impressive with huge plumes of spray being sent up illuminated by the sunrise from behind. Stunning.
The road from Songa to the main tarred road north is a good flat, pothole-less engineering road which you can travel at 100km/h on easily with hardly any traffic to get in your way. So I was cruising along it waving at every villager as I always do when a group of kids to the right of the road caught my attention. One of them had a catapult and as we cruised past, pulled back on it and let a stone fly towards the truck. It smashed into the side window about a foot behind my head, very narrowly missing my open window at neck height.
I jammed on the brakes and screeched the colonel to a halt, grabbed my machete and took off after them into the bush with Rach shouting “Be careful Ben!!”. In the time it had taken to stop they’d totally disappeared and rather than run around an area which was probably full of mines I decided to give up the pursuit and return to the truck.
I was furious but luckily I had fitted anti-smash film to all the windows in the UK and it had paid dividends, the window although smashed held firm and didn’t compromise the security of the truck. A local walking down the road stopped and speaking good English asked what was wrong, I explained to him what had happened and he walked with me to the nearest group of huts some 100m from the road. I explained to him hat had happened and he translated for the locals there directing is conversation to the village elder who understood and explained that he would find out who had done it and act accordingly. My description of the kid I’d seen running away wearing a red t-shirt should be enough to catch the little shit. Nothing more could be done about it so I said my thanks you’s and hit the road again. I’d done similar when I was younger and just about got away with it….remember the piece of string incident Mum and Dad!!
The temperatures rose throughout the day and as we approached Tete hit 35°c, it was a long hot drive to the border with Zambia but the road was in good condition so we made good time and arrived there just after 2.30pm. The usual border formalities were carried out but in an exceptionally efficient way on the Mozambique side and we were gone within 5 minutes.
On arrival in Zambia we expected a number of ‘additonal’ charges which are always levied on tourists and reluctantly paid the “carbon tax” and “road insurance” along with the $150 each for a one week visa!!! That’s too much money gone again!!
Drove for another two hours before arriving in Chipata and were astonished by the cost of things here….fuel is £1.44 per litre, more than the UK so lucky I’d filled the jerry cans up to give us enough range for the coming week! As we entered the town I spotted a scrap yard with a Land Rover in the yard and stopped to find out if they had any windows lying around, after a couple of phone calls the owner Trevor said come back tomorrow and he’d try and sort it out for me. Awesome, but not a guarantee!
Made for Dean’s Hillside Campsite owned by an Englishman and again were the only ones there! Weird trees in the garden whose seed pods exploded in the evening sun sounding like a golfer teeing off and making us jump everytime!
Tired after the long day so early to bed.
End of day location: Chipata, Zambia
Distance covered: 581kms
26th August 08
Date: 26th August 08
Location: Cahorra Bassa Dam, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, very hot, 36°c
Status: Rach feeling better, Colonel has a smashed window and I’m fine!
Up before the sunrise at 5.15am ready for another full day’s travel north. We had a bite of breakfast before hitting the road and took another drive past the dam wall, this time ot was even more impressive with huge plumes of spray being sent up illuminated by the sunrise from behind. Stunning.
The road from Songa to the main tarred road north is a good flat, pothole-less engineering road which you can travel at 100km/h on easily with hardly any traffic to get in your way. So I was cruising along it waving at every villager as I always do when a group of kids to the right of the road caught my attention. One of them had a catapult and as we cruised past, pulled back on it and let a stone fly towards the truck. It smashed into the side window about a foot behind my head, very narrowly missing my open window at neck height.
I jammed on the brakes and screeched the colonel to a halt, grabbed my machete and took off after them into the bush with Rach shouting “Be careful Ben!!”. In the time it had taken to stop they’d totally disappeared and rather than run around an area which was probably full of mines I decided to give up the pursuit and return to the truck.
I was furious but luckily I had fitted anti-smash film to all the windows in the UK and it had paid dividends, the window although smashed held firm and didn’t compromise the security of the truck. A local walking down the road stopped and speaking good English asked what was wrong, I explained to him what had happened and he walked with me to the nearest group of huts some 100m from the road. I explained to him hat had happened and he translated for the locals there directing is conversation to the village elder who understood and explained that he would find out who had done it and act accordingly. My description of the kid I’d seen running away wearing a red t-shirt should be enough to catch the little shit. Nothing more could be done about it so I said my thanks you’s and hit the road again. I’d done similar when I was younger and just about got away with it….remember the piece of string incident Mum and Dad!!
The temperatures rose throughout the day and as we approached Tete hit 35°c, it was a long hot drive to the border with Zambia but the road was in good condition so we made good time and arrived there just after 2.30pm. The usual border formalities were carried out but in an exceptionally efficient way on the Mozambique side and we were gone within 5 minutes.
On arrival in Zambia we expected a number of ‘additonal’ charges which are always levied on tourists and reluctantly paid the “carbon tax” and “road insurance” along with the $150 each for a one week visa!!! That’s too much money gone again!!
Drove for another two hours before arriving in Chipata and were astonished by the cost of things here….fuel is £1.44 per litre, more than the UK so lucky I’d filled the jerry cans up to give us enough range for the coming week! As we entered the town I spotted a scrap yard with a Land Rover in the yard and stopped to find out if they had any windows lying around, after a couple of phone calls the owner Trevor said come back tomorrow and he’d try and sort it out for me. Awesome, but not a guarantee!
Made for Dean’s Hillside Campsite owned by an Englishman and again were the only ones there! Weird trees in the garden whose seed pods exploded in the evening sun sounding like a golfer teeing off and making us jump everytime!
Tired after the long day so early to bed.
End of day location: Chipata, Zambia
Distance covered: 581kms
Location: Cahorra Bassa Dam, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, very hot, 36°c
Status: Rach feeling better, Colonel has a smashed window and I’m fine!
Up before the sunrise at 5.15am ready for another full day’s travel north. We had a bite of breakfast before hitting the road and took another drive past the dam wall, this time ot was even more impressive with huge plumes of spray being sent up illuminated by the sunrise from behind. Stunning.
The road from Songa to the main tarred road north is a good flat, pothole-less engineering road which you can travel at 100km/h on easily with hardly any traffic to get in your way. So I was cruising along it waving at every villager as I always do when a group of kids to the right of the road caught my attention. One of them had a catapult and as we cruised past, pulled back on it and let a stone fly towards the truck. It smashed into the side window about a foot behind my head, very narrowly missing my open window at neck height.
I jammed on the brakes and screeched the colonel to a halt, grabbed my machete and took off after them into the bush with Rach shouting “Be careful Ben!!”. In the time it had taken to stop they’d totally disappeared and rather than run around an area which was probably full of mines I decided to give up the pursuit and return to the truck.
I was furious but luckily I had fitted anti-smash film to all the windows in the UK and it had paid dividends, the window although smashed held firm and didn’t compromise the security of the truck. A local walking down the road stopped and speaking good English asked what was wrong, I explained to him what had happened and he walked with me to the nearest group of huts some 100m from the road. I explained to him hat had happened and he translated for the locals there directing is conversation to the village elder who understood and explained that he would find out who had done it and act accordingly. My description of the kid I’d seen running away wearing a red t-shirt should be enough to catch the little shit. Nothing more could be done about it so I said my thanks you’s and hit the road again. I’d done similar when I was younger and just about got away with it….remember the piece of string incident Mum and Dad!!
The temperatures rose throughout the day and as we approached Tete hit 35°c, it was a long hot drive to the border with Zambia but the road was in good condition so we made good time and arrived there just after 2.30pm. The usual border formalities were carried out but in an exceptionally efficient way on the Mozambique side and we were gone within 5 minutes.
On arrival in Zambia we expected a number of ‘additonal’ charges which are always levied on tourists and reluctantly paid the “carbon tax” and “road insurance” along with the $150 each for a one week visa!!! That’s too much money gone again!!
Drove for another two hours before arriving in Chipata and were astonished by the cost of things here….fuel is £1.44 per litre, more than the UK so lucky I’d filled the jerry cans up to give us enough range for the coming week! As we entered the town I spotted a scrap yard with a Land Rover in the yard and stopped to find out if they had any windows lying around, after a couple of phone calls the owner Trevor said come back tomorrow and he’d try and sort it out for me. Awesome, but not a guarantee!
Made for Dean’s Hillside Campsite owned by an Englishman and again were the only ones there! Weird trees in the garden whose seed pods exploded in the evening sun sounding like a golfer teeing off and making us jump everytime!
Tired after the long day so early to bed.
End of day location: Chipata, Zambia
Distance covered: 581kms
25th August 08
Date: 25th August 08
Location: Cahorra Bassa, Mozambique
Weather: Very hot, no wind and sunny, 33°c
Status: Rach’s not well at all, looking drained, having stomach cramps and other associated nastiness. Ben’s good and feeling happy.
I woke before my alarm at 6am, one of the good things about having several early starts in a row so I decided to don my running kit and go for a good long jog. Rach also woke as I left and told me she’d had a bad nights sleep and that she’d been to the loo 11 times in the night, so I sorted her out some medication, green tea and left her to sleep.
Left the camp at just before 7am and ran the 2kms along the dirt to the tarred road, then headed left in the direction of the dam wall which we’d driven along the day before. A slight incline greeted me which went on for a good 3kms before levelling out, its amazing quite how slight they feel when you’re driving a car along them but how steep they are when you run them. But it felt good.
The scenery around the lake is simply awesome; large rock outcrops, baobab trees and steep sided valleys which caught the morning sunrise perfectly and were bathed in a warm, orange glow. The sounds are another noticeable thing, the absence of anything apart from birdsong, the odd rustle of leaves in the verges as I approached and the distant bleating of goats added to the very special feeling I got in one of my best training locations yet!
The second of the large hills I encountered went on for around 2kms and at the summit I was able to look down to the dam below. Unlike yesterday the power generation plant was at full whack and the spray being sent up by the enormous plumes of water exiting from the rear of the dam wall spiralled high into the air creating a false horizon and leaving rainbows hovering above the walls.
As I dropped down in altitude by some 500m towards the huge engineering plant which produces the electrical power I thought to myself quite how taxing the run back up the same slope would be as the sun would by then be beating down on my back as it rose in the morning sky! It felt good to be out there though putting in the effort as I try and train myself up enough to be able to take on the next few challenges.
The public aren’t allowed past the security barrier at the entrance to the dam without prior arrangement, so I stopped briefly at the guard house, had a quick chat and a slug of their ice-cold water and turned around to take on the hill which I’d just come down.
Slow, progressive, calculated running has always been my approach to long hills and this was no different. I try and avoid looking at the slope ahead and always focus on my feet, the ground beneath them, my arm movement and breathing. Not once over the 5km rise did I stop, slow or rest which makes the arrival at the summit all that more rewarding! I passed several locals all walking the same slope carrying all manner of personal belongings from one location to another…I often wonder what they must think about me as this gangly, white man runs past them with a beaming smile and a pleasant “Morning!”
The drop back down to the turn off for the dirt track which leads back to the camp was uneventful and I increased my pace as the remaining distance reduced. It also gave me time to ponder over the remaining part of the expedition, the challenges involved and ideas which are already blossoming in my head about the next fundraising challenges I’d like to take on. Watch this space as I know already that something will happen!
I arrived back in camp and by now Rach was up so did some exercises and stretches on the veranda and then had some breakfast in the hot morning sunshine.
We laid low for the morning as Rach still wasn’t feeling 100%, watched Sky news and found out just quite how well the UK had done in the Olympics….well done! Walked down to the pontoon where I unrewardingly cast a fishing rod and lure into the lake, read a book and headed back to the room for an afternoon siesta!
End of day location: Songa, Mozambique
Distance covered:
Location: Cahorra Bassa, Mozambique
Weather: Very hot, no wind and sunny, 33°c
Status: Rach’s not well at all, looking drained, having stomach cramps and other associated nastiness. Ben’s good and feeling happy.
I woke before my alarm at 6am, one of the good things about having several early starts in a row so I decided to don my running kit and go for a good long jog. Rach also woke as I left and told me she’d had a bad nights sleep and that she’d been to the loo 11 times in the night, so I sorted her out some medication, green tea and left her to sleep.
Left the camp at just before 7am and ran the 2kms along the dirt to the tarred road, then headed left in the direction of the dam wall which we’d driven along the day before. A slight incline greeted me which went on for a good 3kms before levelling out, its amazing quite how slight they feel when you’re driving a car along them but how steep they are when you run them. But it felt good.
The scenery around the lake is simply awesome; large rock outcrops, baobab trees and steep sided valleys which caught the morning sunrise perfectly and were bathed in a warm, orange glow. The sounds are another noticeable thing, the absence of anything apart from birdsong, the odd rustle of leaves in the verges as I approached and the distant bleating of goats added to the very special feeling I got in one of my best training locations yet!
The second of the large hills I encountered went on for around 2kms and at the summit I was able to look down to the dam below. Unlike yesterday the power generation plant was at full whack and the spray being sent up by the enormous plumes of water exiting from the rear of the dam wall spiralled high into the air creating a false horizon and leaving rainbows hovering above the walls.
As I dropped down in altitude by some 500m towards the huge engineering plant which produces the electrical power I thought to myself quite how taxing the run back up the same slope would be as the sun would by then be beating down on my back as it rose in the morning sky! It felt good to be out there though putting in the effort as I try and train myself up enough to be able to take on the next few challenges.
The public aren’t allowed past the security barrier at the entrance to the dam without prior arrangement, so I stopped briefly at the guard house, had a quick chat and a slug of their ice-cold water and turned around to take on the hill which I’d just come down.
Slow, progressive, calculated running has always been my approach to long hills and this was no different. I try and avoid looking at the slope ahead and always focus on my feet, the ground beneath them, my arm movement and breathing. Not once over the 5km rise did I stop, slow or rest which makes the arrival at the summit all that more rewarding! I passed several locals all walking the same slope carrying all manner of personal belongings from one location to another…I often wonder what they must think about me as this gangly, white man runs past them with a beaming smile and a pleasant “Morning!”
The drop back down to the turn off for the dirt track which leads back to the camp was uneventful and I increased my pace as the remaining distance reduced. It also gave me time to ponder over the remaining part of the expedition, the challenges involved and ideas which are already blossoming in my head about the next fundraising challenges I’d like to take on. Watch this space as I know already that something will happen!
I arrived back in camp and by now Rach was up so did some exercises and stretches on the veranda and then had some breakfast in the hot morning sunshine.
We laid low for the morning as Rach still wasn’t feeling 100%, watched Sky news and found out just quite how well the UK had done in the Olympics….well done! Walked down to the pontoon where I unrewardingly cast a fishing rod and lure into the lake, read a book and headed back to the room for an afternoon siesta!
End of day location: Songa, Mozambique
Distance covered:
24th August 08
Date: 24th August 08
Location: Chimoio, Mozambique
Weather: Misty and grey to start, burnt off by 10am and then blue skies and hot, 32°c
Status: Sad to have to leave Bre, but happy to be moving a good distance again.
Up at 6am and scoffed down some breakfast, packed up the tent and hit the road to the town to fuel up, clean the windscreen and prepare for the drive north up the Tete corridor. A road which was famous for its banditry in the days after the war but has now, luckily, just got a reputation for being ‘unfinished’!
The first 150kms were good with unbroken tarmac and long straight stretches but as we got further along it the odd pothole appeared, then the edges of the road broke away until it was a swerve and dodge drive around the holes in the road! This continued for the next 200kms, with the odd section of roadwork’s, to make it look like they’re actually repairing the road.
After the cock-up of last night and the full accommodation we decided to call ahead to the Ugezi Tiger Lodge, our chosen site for the night, to confirm that they could have us camp there. Unfortunately the same story as before, no camping as the government have changed the licensing for campsites and no-one seems to be re-applying! So instead the owner offered us the chance to have one of their lakeside self catering chalets for the same price….nice one!
The road from the main EN1 to Songa is particularly good as it leads to all the way to the Cahora Bassa Dam, the fifth largest dam in the world and one which supplies hydro-electric power to Mozambique, South Africa, Botswana and Zambia….its enormous!! So the road which runs to it is really good tarmac and the 130kms involved no other traffic and a perfect surface.
We dropped down the zigzag road on our arrival in Songa to the dam and were met by a magnificent site, a huge green lake and one of the most impressive engineering projects I’ve ever seen, all tucked away in the steep valley. We walked down to the lake’s edge took some photos and the drove around the water to our camp for the next couple of days, Uqezi Tiger Lodge, named after the scary looking toothed Tiger Fish which lives here!!
It’s a beautiful site resting on the banks of the lake, with little chalets all surrounded by huge Baobab trees and stunning views of the hills and valleys around. We cooked a late lunch and retired overlooking the lake reading our books. Awesome.
End of day location: Cahora Bassa Dam, Mozambique
Distance covered: 520kms
Location: Chimoio, Mozambique
Weather: Misty and grey to start, burnt off by 10am and then blue skies and hot, 32°c
Status: Sad to have to leave Bre, but happy to be moving a good distance again.
Up at 6am and scoffed down some breakfast, packed up the tent and hit the road to the town to fuel up, clean the windscreen and prepare for the drive north up the Tete corridor. A road which was famous for its banditry in the days after the war but has now, luckily, just got a reputation for being ‘unfinished’!
The first 150kms were good with unbroken tarmac and long straight stretches but as we got further along it the odd pothole appeared, then the edges of the road broke away until it was a swerve and dodge drive around the holes in the road! This continued for the next 200kms, with the odd section of roadwork’s, to make it look like they’re actually repairing the road.
After the cock-up of last night and the full accommodation we decided to call ahead to the Ugezi Tiger Lodge, our chosen site for the night, to confirm that they could have us camp there. Unfortunately the same story as before, no camping as the government have changed the licensing for campsites and no-one seems to be re-applying! So instead the owner offered us the chance to have one of their lakeside self catering chalets for the same price….nice one!
The road from the main EN1 to Songa is particularly good as it leads to all the way to the Cahora Bassa Dam, the fifth largest dam in the world and one which supplies hydro-electric power to Mozambique, South Africa, Botswana and Zambia….its enormous!! So the road which runs to it is really good tarmac and the 130kms involved no other traffic and a perfect surface.
We dropped down the zigzag road on our arrival in Songa to the dam and were met by a magnificent site, a huge green lake and one of the most impressive engineering projects I’ve ever seen, all tucked away in the steep valley. We walked down to the lake’s edge took some photos and the drove around the water to our camp for the next couple of days, Uqezi Tiger Lodge, named after the scary looking toothed Tiger Fish which lives here!!
It’s a beautiful site resting on the banks of the lake, with little chalets all surrounded by huge Baobab trees and stunning views of the hills and valleys around. We cooked a late lunch and retired overlooking the lake reading our books. Awesome.
End of day location: Cahora Bassa Dam, Mozambique
Distance covered: 520kms
23rd August 08
Date: 23rd August 08
Location: Gorogosa NP, Mozambique
Weather: Grey clouds to start clearing as the day went on. 32°c
Status: Up and down like to Roman Empire…
Woke up at 5.30am before the sun had even shown its firsts rays of light as we were off on a game drive to spot some of Rach’s first Big 5, or so we hoped!
Scoffed down breakfast and packed up the tent then got to the gate of the park as it opened at 6.00am, first car in there of the day!
Drove east through the park and spotted numerous warthogs, duiker and other small antelope nestled in the undergrowth, but nothing exceptional, we continued east to the river hoping to see some elephant and as we approached the river dropped down to be parallel with the river bed below and finally spotted something of significance…..hippos and crocs!!
Sat and watched them wallowing for a while and then rejoined the track and turned north to the edge of the lakewhich at this time of year are at a low level and able to be driven up to. Not too much to view except a few waterbuck and buffalo and still no elephants!
Took the drive towards Lion House on the far side of a great open plain and had lunch on the roof of one of the former houses which were sited there and were built in 1940. in their day they must have been highly impressive little pads, sited right on the edge of the grasslands with game all round. Now they are derelict, rundown concrete pads but still bear the build date of 1940, how different they must have been then before the war when vast numbers of game roamed these parts. War = pointless, mindless stupidity by greedy individuals.
Left the park slightly disappointed at not seeing lion or elephant but happy to see that Mozambique is re-building its tourist infrastructure. It’d be good to come back in a few years when it’s slightly more developed and stocked!
Headed out of the park with our destination being Pink Papaya backpackers in Chimoio around 100kms away, but as we were on the way Bre text me to say that they were totally full, as were the other hotels in town so they would be catching the overnight bus all the way through to Tete instead of staying there. We drove into the town, met up with them and again had to say emotional goodbyes for the umpteenth time and will now see each other again in Malawi in around 10 days. Suck X10.
Drove back out of town with Rach and stayed in the yard of the Hotel Mirimar.
End of day location: Chimoio,Mozambique
Distance covered: 214kms
Location: Gorogosa NP, Mozambique
Weather: Grey clouds to start clearing as the day went on. 32°c
Status: Up and down like to Roman Empire…
Woke up at 5.30am before the sun had even shown its firsts rays of light as we were off on a game drive to spot some of Rach’s first Big 5, or so we hoped!
Scoffed down breakfast and packed up the tent then got to the gate of the park as it opened at 6.00am, first car in there of the day!
Drove east through the park and spotted numerous warthogs, duiker and other small antelope nestled in the undergrowth, but nothing exceptional, we continued east to the river hoping to see some elephant and as we approached the river dropped down to be parallel with the river bed below and finally spotted something of significance…..hippos and crocs!!
Sat and watched them wallowing for a while and then rejoined the track and turned north to the edge of the lakewhich at this time of year are at a low level and able to be driven up to. Not too much to view except a few waterbuck and buffalo and still no elephants!
Took the drive towards Lion House on the far side of a great open plain and had lunch on the roof of one of the former houses which were sited there and were built in 1940. in their day they must have been highly impressive little pads, sited right on the edge of the grasslands with game all round. Now they are derelict, rundown concrete pads but still bear the build date of 1940, how different they must have been then before the war when vast numbers of game roamed these parts. War = pointless, mindless stupidity by greedy individuals.
Left the park slightly disappointed at not seeing lion or elephant but happy to see that Mozambique is re-building its tourist infrastructure. It’d be good to come back in a few years when it’s slightly more developed and stocked!
Headed out of the park with our destination being Pink Papaya backpackers in Chimoio around 100kms away, but as we were on the way Bre text me to say that they were totally full, as were the other hotels in town so they would be catching the overnight bus all the way through to Tete instead of staying there. We drove into the town, met up with them and again had to say emotional goodbyes for the umpteenth time and will now see each other again in Malawi in around 10 days. Suck X10.
Drove back out of town with Rach and stayed in the yard of the Hotel Mirimar.
End of day location: Chimoio,Mozambique
Distance covered: 214kms
22nd August 08
Date: 22nd August 08
Location: Beira, Mozambique
Weather: Scattered clouds and hot sunshine. 32°c
Status: All moving along rather well actually!
Up at 6.30am and went for a run along the beach and watched the fishing boats moving slowly up the coast for another days hunting! Got back to the tent and woke Rach and then went for breakfast at the café.
Drove into Beira and experienced the broken roads, beggars and lack of signage that frequent the city. Made our way to the bank, internet and tried to find a travel agent to book Rach’s return flight to Joburg but came up with nothing.
Filled the Colonel with food from the Shoprite and hit the road we’d come down yesterday, a good drive in a relaxed way through the marshy lands of the delta and then up onto the higher ground which leads to the entrance to the park.
Arrived at the gate to be told that it was full! Well after 10mins chatting to the warden in fact there’s no camping as the site is being reinstated, well we don’t need toilets, water or anything as were totally self sufficient I told him! So they let us in and we made our way down the dusty bouncy road to the reception area.
Found our camp and set up for the night, had a chicken on the braai and enjoyed a lovely evening chatting away as the only campers on the site.
Bed as up early for a sunrise game drive.
End of day location: Gorongosa NP, Mozambique
Distance covered: 214kms
Location: Beira, Mozambique
Weather: Scattered clouds and hot sunshine. 32°c
Status: All moving along rather well actually!
Up at 6.30am and went for a run along the beach and watched the fishing boats moving slowly up the coast for another days hunting! Got back to the tent and woke Rach and then went for breakfast at the café.
Drove into Beira and experienced the broken roads, beggars and lack of signage that frequent the city. Made our way to the bank, internet and tried to find a travel agent to book Rach’s return flight to Joburg but came up with nothing.
Filled the Colonel with food from the Shoprite and hit the road we’d come down yesterday, a good drive in a relaxed way through the marshy lands of the delta and then up onto the higher ground which leads to the entrance to the park.
Arrived at the gate to be told that it was full! Well after 10mins chatting to the warden in fact there’s no camping as the site is being reinstated, well we don’t need toilets, water or anything as were totally self sufficient I told him! So they let us in and we made our way down the dusty bouncy road to the reception area.
Found our camp and set up for the night, had a chicken on the braai and enjoyed a lovely evening chatting away as the only campers on the site.
Bed as up early for a sunrise game drive.
End of day location: Gorongosa NP, Mozambique
Distance covered: 214kms
21st August 08
Date: 21st August 08
Location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Weather: Scattered light grey clouds, light onshore wind and warm. 28°c
Status: Ben – ready for the off, Colonel – prepared as ever, Rach – ready to go!
Up early at sunrise, packed down the tent and repacked the Colonel as for the first time in a few weeks they’ll only be two of us riding up the coast for a while. Managed to take some of the weight of the poor Watkins family too as they’ve been hauling a load of blankets around since the days when the evenings were chilly, not sure quite why they still have them now, but as its absolutely no problem to have them onboard as we have the space and they’re only light!
Departed from Baobab Beach and headed into the town with Bre and Ammon on the rear bumper, dropped them at the market and said an emotional farewell to Bre for the third time……was still horrible to have to say goodbye but this time we know its only for a week as we’ll see each other once we get into Malawi so less facial waterworks occurred!
Drove up through the town and filled with fuel then headed to Smugglers camp at the end of the town, where on arrival we wish we’d stayed as it was much better equipped than our home for the last few days! Used their wireless internet to update the blog and receive emails and then sat down and enjoyed a Full English Breakfast, my first since staying with the Taylors a few months ago!
Back on the road and for the first 100kms to Inharasso the road was exactly as I remembered, broken tarmac and potholes with trucks and busses the only means of transport using it. After an hour we got to the Save river and impressive suspension bridge paid the toll which was listed in the old value of the currency as 2,000Mt….but they actually only wanted 20Mt thank goodness!
My memories of the next section of the road from eight years ago was one of horror and fear and I often described it to people as one of the roads I’ve ever had to travel, bumpy, terribly potholed and broken tarmac beyond belief…comparable only to one in Senegal! BUT as with lots of Africa things have improved since as the dear old Chinese are here in force and have removed the old road and re-laid a new one meaning out trip north was smooth, fast and easy all the way to the junction at Inchope some 400kms away.
As I pulled onto the Beira road my phone rang and it was Bre telling me that Kees had arrived at the camp where we’d been staying so again we’d missed each other by a few hours! His plans are very similar to mine, minus some zig-zagging for mountains, so once we finally meet up again in Malawi we’ll plan the route and timings ahead on our journey back to Europe.
Our last 110kms into Beira brought memories flooding back from the previous trip to watch the eclipse with Owen, Pete and Kathy. Ahhh what a shame again Mr TD you really have missed out here. Stopped for half an hour whilst a big crane blocked our path to haul a rolled truck out of the marshy land below the road, and then entered the outskirts of the town.
We made for Biques camp right on the beach which is a little run down camping spot with and awesome restaurant. The buildings surrounding it still bear the scars of the war although some have now been restored and stand out like sore thumbs with their brightly coloured façades and fresh plaster.
Pitched the Colonel on the beach and raised the tent, then made for the restaurant and ordered their seafood platter as it was SO dam good last time around. I remember texting my mother last time to tell her how much was on the plate and it only costing £11….well Mum nothing has changed! The same size portion and the same cost, although this time I did share it with Rach.
Bed after watching the highlights of the Olympics….I can’t quite believe that the UK is third in the medals table, well done UK!
End of day location: Beira, Mozambique
Distance covered: 546kms
Location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Weather: Scattered light grey clouds, light onshore wind and warm. 28°c
Status: Ben – ready for the off, Colonel – prepared as ever, Rach – ready to go!
Up early at sunrise, packed down the tent and repacked the Colonel as for the first time in a few weeks they’ll only be two of us riding up the coast for a while. Managed to take some of the weight of the poor Watkins family too as they’ve been hauling a load of blankets around since the days when the evenings were chilly, not sure quite why they still have them now, but as its absolutely no problem to have them onboard as we have the space and they’re only light!
Departed from Baobab Beach and headed into the town with Bre and Ammon on the rear bumper, dropped them at the market and said an emotional farewell to Bre for the third time……was still horrible to have to say goodbye but this time we know its only for a week as we’ll see each other once we get into Malawi so less facial waterworks occurred!
Drove up through the town and filled with fuel then headed to Smugglers camp at the end of the town, where on arrival we wish we’d stayed as it was much better equipped than our home for the last few days! Used their wireless internet to update the blog and receive emails and then sat down and enjoyed a Full English Breakfast, my first since staying with the Taylors a few months ago!
Back on the road and for the first 100kms to Inharasso the road was exactly as I remembered, broken tarmac and potholes with trucks and busses the only means of transport using it. After an hour we got to the Save river and impressive suspension bridge paid the toll which was listed in the old value of the currency as 2,000Mt….but they actually only wanted 20Mt thank goodness!
My memories of the next section of the road from eight years ago was one of horror and fear and I often described it to people as one of the roads I’ve ever had to travel, bumpy, terribly potholed and broken tarmac beyond belief…comparable only to one in Senegal! BUT as with lots of Africa things have improved since as the dear old Chinese are here in force and have removed the old road and re-laid a new one meaning out trip north was smooth, fast and easy all the way to the junction at Inchope some 400kms away.
As I pulled onto the Beira road my phone rang and it was Bre telling me that Kees had arrived at the camp where we’d been staying so again we’d missed each other by a few hours! His plans are very similar to mine, minus some zig-zagging for mountains, so once we finally meet up again in Malawi we’ll plan the route and timings ahead on our journey back to Europe.
Our last 110kms into Beira brought memories flooding back from the previous trip to watch the eclipse with Owen, Pete and Kathy. Ahhh what a shame again Mr TD you really have missed out here. Stopped for half an hour whilst a big crane blocked our path to haul a rolled truck out of the marshy land below the road, and then entered the outskirts of the town.
We made for Biques camp right on the beach which is a little run down camping spot with and awesome restaurant. The buildings surrounding it still bear the scars of the war although some have now been restored and stand out like sore thumbs with their brightly coloured façades and fresh plaster.
Pitched the Colonel on the beach and raised the tent, then made for the restaurant and ordered their seafood platter as it was SO dam good last time around. I remember texting my mother last time to tell her how much was on the plate and it only costing £11….well Mum nothing has changed! The same size portion and the same cost, although this time I did share it with Rach.
Bed after watching the highlights of the Olympics….I can’t quite believe that the UK is third in the medals table, well done UK!
End of day location: Beira, Mozambique
Distance covered: 546kms
20th August 08
Date: 20th August 08
Location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies, ocean like a mill pond and hot 32°c
Status: Feeling the effects of a day on the ocean…
Up at the crack of dawn around 6am for a quick but wholesome breakfast of cereal, fruit and eggs on toast as Rach and I had a full day ahead.
Met at Odessea Divers next door to the backpackers at 8am and the group of 7 divers and 6 snorkelers gathered, got all of our kit together and walked down to the beach to the awaiting dive boat.
Quentin the South African divemaster ran through the day and the procedures involved and our captain Isaac, a local guy, fired the twin Yamaha engines. We shot across the smooth ocean and 45 mins later arrived at the beach of Bazaruto Island, the largest of the 6 which make up the Archipelago.
Rach, the 5 other snorkelers and I were left whilst the divers were taken to the outer reef. We met a cool Aussie girl called Shannon who joined us for the short walk down the coast on the golden sands to the upstream part of the reef. There’s such a huge amount of water here that the tidal currents are very strong and dangerous, hence the need for the walk!
Rach and I spent the next hour weaving in and out of the reek and surrounding sandbars viewing the multitude of fish and wildlife which frequents this part of the world taking shots as I went. Even managed to spot a Lionfish under one of the precipices! The water was fairly cold even with a good shortie wetsuit on so we left the ocean and basked on the sands for a while to warm up.
The sand dunes are pretty spectacular here so we walked all the way to the top of the highest one and then slid down the 30° slope to the bottom.
The last reef of the day we ere taken to was the most stunning with a huge array of corals, fish and turtles all around, visibility had increased throughout the day to around 40m giving a super clear view all around. Only downside here was in my enthusiasm to chase and photograph one of the turtles I went below the recommended depth my amazing little Olympus camera and water got into the casing rendering it unusable….damn and it’s been so good!
Once the divers had all surfaced we headed back to the mainland, escorted for some of the ride by dolphins off the bow!
Headed into the town for a bite of late lunch and then to the internet, before back to camp to ready the Colonel for tomorrow and the drive north to Beira. I have to leave Bre unfortunately tomorrow for another week or so, Rach and I will head into Zambia and once she departs on the 2nd Sep I will turn east into Malawi to meet up again. This break up and leave thing really sucks and hurts more every time.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 70kms on the ocean
Location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies, ocean like a mill pond and hot 32°c
Status: Feeling the effects of a day on the ocean…
Up at the crack of dawn around 6am for a quick but wholesome breakfast of cereal, fruit and eggs on toast as Rach and I had a full day ahead.
Met at Odessea Divers next door to the backpackers at 8am and the group of 7 divers and 6 snorkelers gathered, got all of our kit together and walked down to the beach to the awaiting dive boat.
Quentin the South African divemaster ran through the day and the procedures involved and our captain Isaac, a local guy, fired the twin Yamaha engines. We shot across the smooth ocean and 45 mins later arrived at the beach of Bazaruto Island, the largest of the 6 which make up the Archipelago.
Rach, the 5 other snorkelers and I were left whilst the divers were taken to the outer reef. We met a cool Aussie girl called Shannon who joined us for the short walk down the coast on the golden sands to the upstream part of the reef. There’s such a huge amount of water here that the tidal currents are very strong and dangerous, hence the need for the walk!
Rach and I spent the next hour weaving in and out of the reek and surrounding sandbars viewing the multitude of fish and wildlife which frequents this part of the world taking shots as I went. Even managed to spot a Lionfish under one of the precipices! The water was fairly cold even with a good shortie wetsuit on so we left the ocean and basked on the sands for a while to warm up.
The sand dunes are pretty spectacular here so we walked all the way to the top of the highest one and then slid down the 30° slope to the bottom.
The last reef of the day we ere taken to was the most stunning with a huge array of corals, fish and turtles all around, visibility had increased throughout the day to around 40m giving a super clear view all around. Only downside here was in my enthusiasm to chase and photograph one of the turtles I went below the recommended depth my amazing little Olympus camera and water got into the casing rendering it unusable….damn and it’s been so good!
Once the divers had all surfaced we headed back to the mainland, escorted for some of the ride by dolphins off the bow!
Headed into the town for a bite of late lunch and then to the internet, before back to camp to ready the Colonel for tomorrow and the drive north to Beira. I have to leave Bre unfortunately tomorrow for another week or so, Rach and I will head into Zambia and once she departs on the 2nd Sep I will turn east into Malawi to meet up again. This break up and leave thing really sucks and hurts more every time.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 70kms on the ocean
Wednesday, 20 August 2008
19th Aug 08
Date: 19th August 08
Location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, back to as I’d expect for winter here! 30°c
Status: Still waiting but now happy with the next two months plan!
Up in time to see the sunrise at 6am so out of the tent and prepared breakfast.
Went next door to Odessey Divers and booked our island trip and also borrowed a snorkel and mask for Bre as we had decided to go for a walk down the beach to the mangrove’s for some swimming.
Bre, Rach, Ammon and I then walked south along the pure white sandy beach collecting shells and throwing a Frisbee around. We walked for a couple of kilometres before deciding that actually the tide was far too far out to be able to swim so walked out to the tide line and waded through the water disturbing hermit crabs, razor shells and little fish as we went. We were escorted all the way by one of the local dogs, a huge Great Dane puppy which looked just like Scooby Doo!
Once we got back to the camp we then headed into town for a spot of lunch, to use the internet and buy some food for the evening. Back at camp I sat down for a couple of hours whilst Bre braided Rach’s hair, and looked at the route ahead for the next two months.
From researching one particular road up the west of Tanzania it appears that it is passable in the dry season opening up the route which will take me through Burundi into Rwanda and on to Uganda allowing me enough time to climb Mt Stanley and then traverse back through Tanzania to Mt Kilimanjaro in time to meet another friend James who’ll be there at the beginning of October. It will be a HUGE rush and everyday will involve a long drive but it is possible. The Afritrex expedition has reached a critical stage after two months of sightseeing in SA and Moz.
I can’t wait to get moving at speed again to take on targets, deadlines and multiple borders and really hope to have Bre with me for the journey as she’s the best girlfriend/partner/ a man could hope for on such a trip. Let’s hope her brother Ammon thinks the same when he’s planning their route or I may have to kidnap her!
Headed down to the bar far a drink then headed to bed, damn its cold tonight…21°c. up early in the morning for our trip.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 0kms
Location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, back to as I’d expect for winter here! 30°c
Status: Still waiting but now happy with the next two months plan!
Up in time to see the sunrise at 6am so out of the tent and prepared breakfast.
Went next door to Odessey Divers and booked our island trip and also borrowed a snorkel and mask for Bre as we had decided to go for a walk down the beach to the mangrove’s for some swimming.
Bre, Rach, Ammon and I then walked south along the pure white sandy beach collecting shells and throwing a Frisbee around. We walked for a couple of kilometres before deciding that actually the tide was far too far out to be able to swim so walked out to the tide line and waded through the water disturbing hermit crabs, razor shells and little fish as we went. We were escorted all the way by one of the local dogs, a huge Great Dane puppy which looked just like Scooby Doo!
Once we got back to the camp we then headed into town for a spot of lunch, to use the internet and buy some food for the evening. Back at camp I sat down for a couple of hours whilst Bre braided Rach’s hair, and looked at the route ahead for the next two months.
From researching one particular road up the west of Tanzania it appears that it is passable in the dry season opening up the route which will take me through Burundi into Rwanda and on to Uganda allowing me enough time to climb Mt Stanley and then traverse back through Tanzania to Mt Kilimanjaro in time to meet another friend James who’ll be there at the beginning of October. It will be a HUGE rush and everyday will involve a long drive but it is possible. The Afritrex expedition has reached a critical stage after two months of sightseeing in SA and Moz.
I can’t wait to get moving at speed again to take on targets, deadlines and multiple borders and really hope to have Bre with me for the journey as she’s the best girlfriend/partner/ a man could hope for on such a trip. Let’s hope her brother Ammon thinks the same when he’s planning their route or I may have to kidnap her!
Headed down to the bar far a drink then headed to bed, damn its cold tonight…21°c. up early in the morning for our trip.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 0kms
18th Aug 08
Date: 18th August 08
Location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Weather: Grey skies and windy, clearing throughout the day. 30°c
Status: Waiting…..still!
Up early and had the usual breakfast of eggs and soldiers, then wandered into another couple of shops offering trips out to the islands, same answer as yesterday in that nothing is available until Wednesday, arghhhh!!!
So walked into town for more food, we were very kindly offered a lift by one of the locals and gladly accepted as the supermarket was a good 2kms away. Bought lots of good things to have a braai with including chicken drumsticks and boerwors.
Walked back via the tourist information but they couldn’t offer us any alternatives for the afternoon apart from sitting on our asses, bought some charcoal and wandered down the beach home.
Stretched and exercised with Bre and Rach and then sat down at the bar to look at the maps and timescale involved for the next two months ahead. Wow it really is going to be a huge struggle to try and fit in both of the climbs, a marathon and also enough time to meet up with my parents who intend flying out to meet me in Kenya sometime soon.
Will have to sit down with Ammon, Bre’s brother and the family’s mastermind when it comes to their organisation, tomorrow and discuss their and my movements to see when we’ll all be together over the next few months. I really woud like to spend as much time with Bre as possible and hope that we can at least climb one of the mountains together!
Had the braai, went to bed.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 0kms
Location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Weather: Grey skies and windy, clearing throughout the day. 30°c
Status: Waiting…..still!
Up early and had the usual breakfast of eggs and soldiers, then wandered into another couple of shops offering trips out to the islands, same answer as yesterday in that nothing is available until Wednesday, arghhhh!!!
So walked into town for more food, we were very kindly offered a lift by one of the locals and gladly accepted as the supermarket was a good 2kms away. Bought lots of good things to have a braai with including chicken drumsticks and boerwors.
Walked back via the tourist information but they couldn’t offer us any alternatives for the afternoon apart from sitting on our asses, bought some charcoal and wandered down the beach home.
Stretched and exercised with Bre and Rach and then sat down at the bar to look at the maps and timescale involved for the next two months ahead. Wow it really is going to be a huge struggle to try and fit in both of the climbs, a marathon and also enough time to meet up with my parents who intend flying out to meet me in Kenya sometime soon.
Will have to sit down with Ammon, Bre’s brother and the family’s mastermind when it comes to their organisation, tomorrow and discuss their and my movements to see when we’ll all be together over the next few months. I really woud like to spend as much time with Bre as possible and hope that we can at least climb one of the mountains together!
Had the braai, went to bed.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 0kms
17th Aug 08
Date: 17th August 08
Location: Vilanculos, Inhambane
Weather: Clear blue skies in the morning then windy and grey in the afternoon. 30°c
Status: Sitting and waiting for the weather…
Up relatively late and had eggs for breakfast then oranges, stretched and exercised!
Walked into the town and went to the market area to buy enough fresh fruit and veg for the evening meal. Asked one of the locals to recommend a good place to eat for lunch and he, John that is, took us through the market and to a little back street restaurant called Bar Ising…..much to the horror of Rachel and Savannah. They reallt didn’t like the idea of going to one of the locals eateries!!
We ordered four of the only thing they had on the menu, chicken and rice washed down by a fanta. In the end it was great food but the locals constantly staring at them as they ate we too much, I loved the interaction and revelled in the humerous exchanges with the female chef!
Came back via a couple of the businesses offering trips out to the Bazaruto Archipelago but as the weather was taking a turn for the worst they all said that nothing would be possible until Wednesday at least. Balls, more time sat around waiting.
Fishcakes and salad for dinner then early to bed.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 0kms
Location: Vilanculos, Inhambane
Weather: Clear blue skies in the morning then windy and grey in the afternoon. 30°c
Status: Sitting and waiting for the weather…
Up relatively late and had eggs for breakfast then oranges, stretched and exercised!
Walked into the town and went to the market area to buy enough fresh fruit and veg for the evening meal. Asked one of the locals to recommend a good place to eat for lunch and he, John that is, took us through the market and to a little back street restaurant called Bar Ising…..much to the horror of Rachel and Savannah. They reallt didn’t like the idea of going to one of the locals eateries!!
We ordered four of the only thing they had on the menu, chicken and rice washed down by a fanta. In the end it was great food but the locals constantly staring at them as they ate we too much, I loved the interaction and revelled in the humerous exchanges with the female chef!
Came back via a couple of the businesses offering trips out to the Bazaruto Archipelago but as the weather was taking a turn for the worst they all said that nothing would be possible until Wednesday at least. Balls, more time sat around waiting.
Fishcakes and salad for dinner then early to bed.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 0kms
16th Aug 08
Date: 16th August 08
Location: Tofo, Inhambane, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine….hot 32°c
Status: Felling happy, healthy and ready to move on.
Up at 6am to beat the heat of the day and went for a long run down the sandy beach towards the tip of land which forms part of the bay surrounding Tofo, and arrived there after running for nearly an hour into a headwind feeling well exercised! The run back was hot….with the wind and the sun was damn hot beating down on my shoulders, I alternated between jogging and sprinting for short sections to up my breathing and muscle work rate, this felt hard at the time but good once I’d finished.
I arrived outside Fatima’s steps, dropped to the ground for a series of stretches and press ups before jumping into the ocean to cool off for a well earned swim!
We packed up camp together and forced four peoples kit into the Colonel. We’d decided that Bre and Savannah would join us for the trip up the coast to Vilanculos and the rest of their family would arrive on public transport a day later. Full but not too uncomfortable….
A road which changed from good tarmac to potholed hell for the first time since Angola reminded me quite how much you need the strong suspension of a four wheel drive like the Colonel!
5 hours later we’d arrived in the town which overlooks the Bazaruto Archipelago, a group of islands around 10kms of the coast, part of a World Heritage site which contain hundreds of reefs and sites to snorkel and dive.
Baobab backpakers is located again, right on the beach, we pulled into the yard, setup cam and cooked pasta, pesto and tomatoes for dinner and listened to the crap music which was supposed to form part of the Full Moon Party…..very disappointing, so we went to bed early.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 320kms
Location: Tofo, Inhambane, Mozambique
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine….hot 32°c
Status: Felling happy, healthy and ready to move on.
Up at 6am to beat the heat of the day and went for a long run down the sandy beach towards the tip of land which forms part of the bay surrounding Tofo, and arrived there after running for nearly an hour into a headwind feeling well exercised! The run back was hot….with the wind and the sun was damn hot beating down on my shoulders, I alternated between jogging and sprinting for short sections to up my breathing and muscle work rate, this felt hard at the time but good once I’d finished.
I arrived outside Fatima’s steps, dropped to the ground for a series of stretches and press ups before jumping into the ocean to cool off for a well earned swim!
We packed up camp together and forced four peoples kit into the Colonel. We’d decided that Bre and Savannah would join us for the trip up the coast to Vilanculos and the rest of their family would arrive on public transport a day later. Full but not too uncomfortable….
A road which changed from good tarmac to potholed hell for the first time since Angola reminded me quite how much you need the strong suspension of a four wheel drive like the Colonel!
5 hours later we’d arrived in the town which overlooks the Bazaruto Archipelago, a group of islands around 10kms of the coast, part of a World Heritage site which contain hundreds of reefs and sites to snorkel and dive.
Baobab backpakers is located again, right on the beach, we pulled into the yard, setup cam and cooked pasta, pesto and tomatoes for dinner and listened to the crap music which was supposed to form part of the Full Moon Party…..very disappointing, so we went to bed early.
End of day location: Vilanculos, Mozambique
Distance covered: 320kms
10th August 08
Date: 10 – 15th August 08
Location: Tofo, Inhambane, Mozambique
Weather: All of the 5 days covered have been stunning weather with sunshine and light winds, temperatures varying between 28 and 32°c
Status: doing what I do best, enjoying the pleasures of the ocean and weather.
Arrived in the familiar beachside town of Tofo, a location I’d stayed at before and in the eight years its changed a whole load, our entrance to the market area was unfortunately greeted by about 10 sellers all thrusting their wares through the window of the truck! This place has become a tourist destination for the hordes of South African holiday makers who plague this part of the coast during holiday season….luckily we’d arrived well outside of this time!!!!
We drove down the road which has the main camping areas including Fatima’s, Dino’s and Bamboozi’s and were greeted by a wall of thick white smoke billowing across the road. The marsh area to the west of this spit of land is made up of mud flats into which grow thousands of reeds which were all in full flower and it was these which had somehow been ignited and were furiously burning.
The strong wind was fuelling the fire and it was advancing with speed towards the road where I’d parked and the all of the backpackers. People were standing on the tops of their properties armed with nothing more than hosepipes and buckets damping down the thatched roofs from which all of the buildings are built. I sat in my truck out of the smoke and watched as the main body of the fire swept past 20m away from me! Half an hour later it was gone and all that remained was the smell of charred bush and a few burning trees. Intense!
We stayed at Fatima’s Backpackers for our five day break on the coast to allow my friend Josie to enjoy her time in one place rather than sat in the back of the Colonel, say farewell to Alex after 5 months of enjoying her mad, superb Australian company on the road all the way down from Ghana and to hang around long enough for the Watkins family to join us and to see Bre again.
During our stay there the girls went out on a dive to one of the famous reef sites but came home disappointed so we all signed up for an ocean safari which took us down the coast and slightly offshore to an area where whale sharks are regularly sighted…and we weren’t let down at all!!
We spent four hours motoring between sites and each time the spotter shouted to us all to get into the water as one of these fantastic beasts passed within sight of the boat. We’d all been equipped wetsuits, fins and snorkels and launched ourselves into the warm Indian Ocean diving far below the surface to view these amazing creatures as they effortlessly swam up the coastline. The largest of them was nearly four metres!
Josy, Rach and I hired a paddle ski for the afternoon and as they confidently paddled out into the surf I followed behind them swimming in the warm surf which was awesome for my fitness! We all made it out to the reef break about a km offshore, dived down to the bottom to take some photos and lapped up the warmth of the sun and the water. Then we all tried to get onto the ski and how amusing it was!! Two of us made it on ok but as Josy tried to haul herself out of the water the centre of gravity changed totally and over we all went face first. I paddled them back to the shore and then headed off by myself for another lap of the bay, loving the burning feeling in my shoulders which I haven’t really felt since I stopped swimming before work back in the UK.
We all gave Alex a good send off on the Wednesday night as she was heading back to Ghana via Joburg and Cairo, she was a brilliant person to have on board for such a good part of the trip and will be sorely missed.
I was sorting out the packing of my truck the next day when all of a sudden I was grabbed from behind….I looked down and spotted a pair of shoes I recognised instantly….BRE WAS BACK!!! Huge hugs and snogs followed and it felt like I’d been apart from her for much more than the 2 weeks it had been!
The family had told me they were heading north past Tofo to Vilanculos where I would meet them in a few days time but Bre had sneakily arranged for them to spend sometime with me before they continued on their passage. Flippin awesome!!
End of day location: Tofo, Inhambane, Mozambique
Distance covered: 0kms
Location: Tofo, Inhambane, Mozambique
Weather: All of the 5 days covered have been stunning weather with sunshine and light winds, temperatures varying between 28 and 32°c
Status: doing what I do best, enjoying the pleasures of the ocean and weather.
Arrived in the familiar beachside town of Tofo, a location I’d stayed at before and in the eight years its changed a whole load, our entrance to the market area was unfortunately greeted by about 10 sellers all thrusting their wares through the window of the truck! This place has become a tourist destination for the hordes of South African holiday makers who plague this part of the coast during holiday season….luckily we’d arrived well outside of this time!!!!
We drove down the road which has the main camping areas including Fatima’s, Dino’s and Bamboozi’s and were greeted by a wall of thick white smoke billowing across the road. The marsh area to the west of this spit of land is made up of mud flats into which grow thousands of reeds which were all in full flower and it was these which had somehow been ignited and were furiously burning.
The strong wind was fuelling the fire and it was advancing with speed towards the road where I’d parked and the all of the backpackers. People were standing on the tops of their properties armed with nothing more than hosepipes and buckets damping down the thatched roofs from which all of the buildings are built. I sat in my truck out of the smoke and watched as the main body of the fire swept past 20m away from me! Half an hour later it was gone and all that remained was the smell of charred bush and a few burning trees. Intense!
We stayed at Fatima’s Backpackers for our five day break on the coast to allow my friend Josie to enjoy her time in one place rather than sat in the back of the Colonel, say farewell to Alex after 5 months of enjoying her mad, superb Australian company on the road all the way down from Ghana and to hang around long enough for the Watkins family to join us and to see Bre again.
During our stay there the girls went out on a dive to one of the famous reef sites but came home disappointed so we all signed up for an ocean safari which took us down the coast and slightly offshore to an area where whale sharks are regularly sighted…and we weren’t let down at all!!
We spent four hours motoring between sites and each time the spotter shouted to us all to get into the water as one of these fantastic beasts passed within sight of the boat. We’d all been equipped wetsuits, fins and snorkels and launched ourselves into the warm Indian Ocean diving far below the surface to view these amazing creatures as they effortlessly swam up the coastline. The largest of them was nearly four metres!
Josy, Rach and I hired a paddle ski for the afternoon and as they confidently paddled out into the surf I followed behind them swimming in the warm surf which was awesome for my fitness! We all made it out to the reef break about a km offshore, dived down to the bottom to take some photos and lapped up the warmth of the sun and the water. Then we all tried to get onto the ski and how amusing it was!! Two of us made it on ok but as Josy tried to haul herself out of the water the centre of gravity changed totally and over we all went face first. I paddled them back to the shore and then headed off by myself for another lap of the bay, loving the burning feeling in my shoulders which I haven’t really felt since I stopped swimming before work back in the UK.
We all gave Alex a good send off on the Wednesday night as she was heading back to Ghana via Joburg and Cairo, she was a brilliant person to have on board for such a good part of the trip and will be sorely missed.
I was sorting out the packing of my truck the next day when all of a sudden I was grabbed from behind….I looked down and spotted a pair of shoes I recognised instantly….BRE WAS BACK!!! Huge hugs and snogs followed and it felt like I’d been apart from her for much more than the 2 weeks it had been!
The family had told me they were heading north past Tofo to Vilanculos where I would meet them in a few days time but Bre had sneakily arranged for them to spend sometime with me before they continued on their passage. Flippin awesome!!
End of day location: Tofo, Inhambane, Mozambique
Distance covered: 0kms
9th August 08
Date: 9th August 08
Location: Hwane, Swaziland
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine but cold to start. 24°c
Status: All together and happy to be moving towards Mozambique…
Up late and finally cleared out the mess from the night before, we’d decided last night to recreate our very own Olympic opening ceremony as the real Olympics started in Beijing on Friday evening! This involved a few bottles of wine, some hastily created props including a torch and a number of special events. Hasten to say to debris left afterwards required some cleaning up!
Hit the road east towards the border between Swaziland and Mozambique, wasn’t too far away so we pulled into the capital Mbabane for a bite of lunch and then drove the remaining 80kms to the border. We bought our visas here at a cost of R175, the car insurance at R80 and 20 minutes later all of the documents and passports were ready to collect. Simple borders are an absolute pleasure….
As we drove through the initial parts of Moz the scenery started to change with the most obvious being the introduction of coconut palms….everywhere!!! this was my most overriding memory when I visited the country 8 years ago to watch the eclipse!
We drove through familiar territory for me passing recognisable petrol stations, toll booths and the industrial zone of Maputo and as the sun dropped down in the sky started to look for somewhere to spend the night, the four of us all together out camping for the first time!
We’d aimed to get all the way through to Imhambane and Tofo beach but the lack of daylight beat us and using the gps system located a campsite on the beach just north of the capital, Maputo at Macaneta.
I thought it would be an easy beach camp but as we drove through the town the gps directed the Colonel straight to the ferry on the edge of the marshes! We enquired with the locals who recommended it as a good place to camp and boarded the 4 car ferry! The rickety old chug boat took us across in 10 mins and after driving for 20 mins on some rutted muddy roads arrived at the campsite.
Dinner and bed.
End of day location: Macaneta, Mozambique
Distance covered: ???
Location: Hwane, Swaziland
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine but cold to start. 24°c
Status: All together and happy to be moving towards Mozambique…
Up late and finally cleared out the mess from the night before, we’d decided last night to recreate our very own Olympic opening ceremony as the real Olympics started in Beijing on Friday evening! This involved a few bottles of wine, some hastily created props including a torch and a number of special events. Hasten to say to debris left afterwards required some cleaning up!
Hit the road east towards the border between Swaziland and Mozambique, wasn’t too far away so we pulled into the capital Mbabane for a bite of lunch and then drove the remaining 80kms to the border. We bought our visas here at a cost of R175, the car insurance at R80 and 20 minutes later all of the documents and passports were ready to collect. Simple borders are an absolute pleasure….
As we drove through the initial parts of Moz the scenery started to change with the most obvious being the introduction of coconut palms….everywhere!!! this was my most overriding memory when I visited the country 8 years ago to watch the eclipse!
We drove through familiar territory for me passing recognisable petrol stations, toll booths and the industrial zone of Maputo and as the sun dropped down in the sky started to look for somewhere to spend the night, the four of us all together out camping for the first time!
We’d aimed to get all the way through to Imhambane and Tofo beach but the lack of daylight beat us and using the gps system located a campsite on the beach just north of the capital, Maputo at Macaneta.
I thought it would be an easy beach camp but as we drove through the town the gps directed the Colonel straight to the ferry on the edge of the marshes! We enquired with the locals who recommended it as a good place to camp and boarded the 4 car ferry! The rickety old chug boat took us across in 10 mins and after driving for 20 mins on some rutted muddy roads arrived at the campsite.
Dinner and bed.
End of day location: Macaneta, Mozambique
Distance covered: ???
Thursday, 14 August 2008
8th August 08
Date: 8th August 08
Location: Nelspruit, South Africa
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, 27°c
Status: All ready to get going finally!
Up early to check into the Funky Monkey Backpackers which we’d arrived at late last night, had a good fill of the free breakfast and waited around for Alex and Jo to get back from their days visit to Kruger NP.
When they arrived we all said our hello’s and made for the supermarket to stock the Colonel up with the supplies we’d need for the next day or so…and then the even more fun job of trying to fit it all in to a vehicle which was already filled to over capacity.
Made for the road and drive to Barberton which is at the base of the Lebomboberg mountain range to start the 42km climb to the Swazi border. A broken road which was under repair, dusty and potholed…and then turned out to be the wrong damn border as they wouldn’t be able to process my application for my VAT return as a tourist!!
So had to drive to Oshoek another 50kms away along relatively similar roads to enable my application to be processed. A fairly lengthy border crossing and as we left the sun was dropping out of the sky so we made for the Hwane Horse stables and backpackers.
We were the only ones to spend the night here and it was a brilliantly organised and designed little place with thatch roofed bedrooms and even the stables where we were staying was awesomely kitted out and very luxurious!
The girls all prepared dinner of a chicken curry, while I planned the route for the next day.
Bed.
End of day location: Hwane, Swaziland
Distance covered: 152kms
Location: Nelspruit, South Africa
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, 27°c
Status: All ready to get going finally!
Up early to check into the Funky Monkey Backpackers which we’d arrived at late last night, had a good fill of the free breakfast and waited around for Alex and Jo to get back from their days visit to Kruger NP.
When they arrived we all said our hello’s and made for the supermarket to stock the Colonel up with the supplies we’d need for the next day or so…and then the even more fun job of trying to fit it all in to a vehicle which was already filled to over capacity.
Made for the road and drive to Barberton which is at the base of the Lebomboberg mountain range to start the 42km climb to the Swazi border. A broken road which was under repair, dusty and potholed…and then turned out to be the wrong damn border as they wouldn’t be able to process my application for my VAT return as a tourist!!
So had to drive to Oshoek another 50kms away along relatively similar roads to enable my application to be processed. A fairly lengthy border crossing and as we left the sun was dropping out of the sky so we made for the Hwane Horse stables and backpackers.
We were the only ones to spend the night here and it was a brilliantly organised and designed little place with thatch roofed bedrooms and even the stables where we were staying was awesomely kitted out and very luxurious!
The girls all prepared dinner of a chicken curry, while I planned the route for the next day.
Bed.
End of day location: Hwane, Swaziland
Distance covered: 152kms
Friday, 8 August 2008
7th Aug 08
Date: 5, 6 and 7th August 08
Location: Joburg, South Africa
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, cold at night. 27°c
Status: Ready to roll again
5th Aug – left Dundee at 5.30am to drive, what I thought was around 250kms which should have taken us around 3½ hrs….I should have looked at the map better really as the reality was 370kms and a journey time of 4½ hrs which left Josy waiting at the airport for us, oops and I do hate being late for things!
Made for Gemini Backpackers and pulled into the driveway of a private house which was located in one of the more down trodden areas of Joburg. No chance fro mhere to walk to the shops or a mall – so we decided to head for our second choice instead, Brown Sugar Backpackers.
What a superb house, a former mafia base which is sited on Observatory hill, is set on four levels with the upper most being a green lawn with a large pool as blue as the ocean. A good place to rest for a while.
6th Aug - Yesterday was a quiet day preparing and readying the Colonel for the next leg of the expedition and for the first time since leaving the UK, attempting to get 4 people and all of their kit into my home. A challenge in itself.
We also went quickly up to Sandton City and the Nelson Mandela Square for a quick shopping run, posted some postcards for my family and grabbed a bite to eat before driving Alex and Josy to the airport where their bus was leaving from.
They both decided not to waste 2 days sat in the lovely city of Joburg and instead to bus it down to Nelspruit and take in a days game drive through Kruger NP. Good choice!
So I have been left in Joburg to prepare the Colonel ready for the next part of the trip, greased everything up underneath, found a loose oil filter so replaced it, compressed all of my belongings down into THE smallest possible space and eventually ended up with a Land Rover which will allow 4 people to travel in it in relative comfort!
Spent the afternoon reading Sir Ranulph Fiennes (one of Afritrex’s Patron’s) autobiography which every time I pick it up fills me with huge drive and motivates me not only to complete this expedition without any difficulty, but also gives me the desire to take on much more complicated, challenging expeditions in the future. Watch this space….Afritrex 2 or similar will happen.
Watched the sun set over the city as the twinkling lights became brighter and pondered long and hard the next few weeks and what the east coast of Africa will bring. I cannot wait to get moving again, South Africa has been fantastic and I’ve achieved a lot since arriving here 2 months ago but I want to get back to the part I love the best, the travelling. Not knowing what’s around the next corner, meeting new people every day, feeling the African heat and mixing with border officials and the hustle and bustle which surrounds these places. Oh and cooking over a fire…..
Left for the airport to collect Rachel at 10pm and drove to Nelspruit which took 4hrs through the night. Slept well
End of day location: Nelspruit, South Africa
Distance covered: 376kms
Location: Joburg, South Africa
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, cold at night. 27°c
Status: Ready to roll again
5th Aug – left Dundee at 5.30am to drive, what I thought was around 250kms which should have taken us around 3½ hrs….I should have looked at the map better really as the reality was 370kms and a journey time of 4½ hrs which left Josy waiting at the airport for us, oops and I do hate being late for things!
Made for Gemini Backpackers and pulled into the driveway of a private house which was located in one of the more down trodden areas of Joburg. No chance fro mhere to walk to the shops or a mall – so we decided to head for our second choice instead, Brown Sugar Backpackers.
What a superb house, a former mafia base which is sited on Observatory hill, is set on four levels with the upper most being a green lawn with a large pool as blue as the ocean. A good place to rest for a while.
6th Aug - Yesterday was a quiet day preparing and readying the Colonel for the next leg of the expedition and for the first time since leaving the UK, attempting to get 4 people and all of their kit into my home. A challenge in itself.
We also went quickly up to Sandton City and the Nelson Mandela Square for a quick shopping run, posted some postcards for my family and grabbed a bite to eat before driving Alex and Josy to the airport where their bus was leaving from.
They both decided not to waste 2 days sat in the lovely city of Joburg and instead to bus it down to Nelspruit and take in a days game drive through Kruger NP. Good choice!
So I have been left in Joburg to prepare the Colonel ready for the next part of the trip, greased everything up underneath, found a loose oil filter so replaced it, compressed all of my belongings down into THE smallest possible space and eventually ended up with a Land Rover which will allow 4 people to travel in it in relative comfort!
Spent the afternoon reading Sir Ranulph Fiennes (one of Afritrex’s Patron’s) autobiography which every time I pick it up fills me with huge drive and motivates me not only to complete this expedition without any difficulty, but also gives me the desire to take on much more complicated, challenging expeditions in the future. Watch this space….Afritrex 2 or similar will happen.
Watched the sun set over the city as the twinkling lights became brighter and pondered long and hard the next few weeks and what the east coast of Africa will bring. I cannot wait to get moving again, South Africa has been fantastic and I’ve achieved a lot since arriving here 2 months ago but I want to get back to the part I love the best, the travelling. Not knowing what’s around the next corner, meeting new people every day, feeling the African heat and mixing with border officials and the hustle and bustle which surrounds these places. Oh and cooking over a fire…..
Left for the airport to collect Rachel at 10pm and drove to Nelspruit which took 4hrs through the night. Slept well
End of day location: Nelspruit, South Africa
Distance covered: 376kms
Tuesday, 5 August 2008
4th August 08
Date: 4th August 08
Location: Dundee, South Africa
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, warmer at last, 27°c
Status: Learning lots from an expert guide!
Anthony, Patrick’s uncle, has been a military history guide around the battlefields of northern Natal for the past 40 years and is a true expert with all things relating to the numerous battles which have changed the face of this part of the world over the last 200 years.
We packed our things into his Nissan Patrol, cameras, lunch and notepads and headed out of the town around 8.30am ready to drive the 50kms to the first of the sites….Isandwala, the site of the British massacre in 1879.
After an hour’s drive down some very bumpy dirt roads, which he totally flew down incidentally, we arrived at the top of a pass overlooking the expansive valley floor below which stretched off far into the horizon. We got out and Anthony explained the lie of the land in front of us and how, off to our east the British troops had advanced towards the Zulu warriors pulling oxen and carts all of those years ago down the steep passes and onto the valley floor in the middle of summer through boggy wet conditions.
Back in the car and a short drive to the first of the battle sites and immediately as we pulled into the car park I sensed a place of enormous emotion and history, white cairns scattered all over the surrounding parched, brown grasslands each paying homage to the soldiers who 129 years ago had given their lives as part of the continuing British empire across the planet.
We sat for a couple of hours as he expertly told us of the significance of the landscape and its features and hiding places, the regiments, battalions and individuals involved and the critically incorrect decisions which had been made over the course of a 3 day period leading to the eventual deaths of thousands of British, colonial and commonwealth soldiers in a total massacre at the hands of the advancing Zulu warriors. A very moving, emotional and realistic description of the actions which took place that hit home even more as we were right there on the site of the battleground.
The sun was rising in the sky and heating us and the surrounding air and finally I was feeling African heat again after the chills of Cape Town and the Western Cape. We packed our chairs up and took a walk up the famous outlined hill of Isandwala to visit yet more cairns and reflect on what had happened here so many years ago.
Into the car and off to the next location, Rorke’s Drift some 15kms away passing over the Buffalo River on the way, the site at the time of the battle of a fast moving obstacle which required a command of British engineers there at all times to operate a pont bridge to allow the carts and supplies to be fed forward to the men on the front line.
The original buildings and trees which were on the site of the infamous Rorke’s Drift have unfortunately long gone, but there has been a replica built on the site to show quite how difficult and large a position it would have been for the battalion posted here to defend, they numbered 400 at the start of the battle and through desertion and death totalled less than 30 when the Zulu’s pulled back after 2 days and nights hard fighting.
I will endeavour to write more on this subject later as a specific article for the site as this very famous battle, detailed in the film ‘Zulu’ covers one of the most important sites in the whole of the world in terms of number of Victoria Crosses handed in a single battle.
Once we’d toured the site, taken photos and paid our way we made to the car and headed back out towards Dundee after a stunningly interesting, moving and thoughtful day in the very careful, knowledgeable hands of our guide Anthony who can’t be thanked enough.
Back to the house where Patricks aunt cooked us a gorgeous roast chicken AND beef dinner, did some work on the computer then bed. Early start tomorrow to be in Joburg to collect Josie from the airport by 9am….some 220kms away!
End of day location: Dundee, South Africa
Distance covered: 110kms
Location: Dundee, South Africa
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine, warmer at last, 27°c
Status: Learning lots from an expert guide!
Anthony, Patrick’s uncle, has been a military history guide around the battlefields of northern Natal for the past 40 years and is a true expert with all things relating to the numerous battles which have changed the face of this part of the world over the last 200 years.
We packed our things into his Nissan Patrol, cameras, lunch and notepads and headed out of the town around 8.30am ready to drive the 50kms to the first of the sites….Isandwala, the site of the British massacre in 1879.
After an hour’s drive down some very bumpy dirt roads, which he totally flew down incidentally, we arrived at the top of a pass overlooking the expansive valley floor below which stretched off far into the horizon. We got out and Anthony explained the lie of the land in front of us and how, off to our east the British troops had advanced towards the Zulu warriors pulling oxen and carts all of those years ago down the steep passes and onto the valley floor in the middle of summer through boggy wet conditions.
Back in the car and a short drive to the first of the battle sites and immediately as we pulled into the car park I sensed a place of enormous emotion and history, white cairns scattered all over the surrounding parched, brown grasslands each paying homage to the soldiers who 129 years ago had given their lives as part of the continuing British empire across the planet.
We sat for a couple of hours as he expertly told us of the significance of the landscape and its features and hiding places, the regiments, battalions and individuals involved and the critically incorrect decisions which had been made over the course of a 3 day period leading to the eventual deaths of thousands of British, colonial and commonwealth soldiers in a total massacre at the hands of the advancing Zulu warriors. A very moving, emotional and realistic description of the actions which took place that hit home even more as we were right there on the site of the battleground.
The sun was rising in the sky and heating us and the surrounding air and finally I was feeling African heat again after the chills of Cape Town and the Western Cape. We packed our chairs up and took a walk up the famous outlined hill of Isandwala to visit yet more cairns and reflect on what had happened here so many years ago.
Into the car and off to the next location, Rorke’s Drift some 15kms away passing over the Buffalo River on the way, the site at the time of the battle of a fast moving obstacle which required a command of British engineers there at all times to operate a pont bridge to allow the carts and supplies to be fed forward to the men on the front line.
The original buildings and trees which were on the site of the infamous Rorke’s Drift have unfortunately long gone, but there has been a replica built on the site to show quite how difficult and large a position it would have been for the battalion posted here to defend, they numbered 400 at the start of the battle and through desertion and death totalled less than 30 when the Zulu’s pulled back after 2 days and nights hard fighting.
I will endeavour to write more on this subject later as a specific article for the site as this very famous battle, detailed in the film ‘Zulu’ covers one of the most important sites in the whole of the world in terms of number of Victoria Crosses handed in a single battle.
Once we’d toured the site, taken photos and paid our way we made to the car and headed back out towards Dundee after a stunningly interesting, moving and thoughtful day in the very careful, knowledgeable hands of our guide Anthony who can’t be thanked enough.
Back to the house where Patricks aunt cooked us a gorgeous roast chicken AND beef dinner, did some work on the computer then bed. Early start tomorrow to be in Joburg to collect Josie from the airport by 9am….some 220kms away!
End of day location: Dundee, South Africa
Distance covered: 110kms
3rd August 08
Date: 3rd August 08
Location: Beaufort West, South Africa
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine. 20°c
Status: All having a very good trip north towards the next part!
Left Beaufort West at 7.00am to start the long trip north towards Patrick and Sarah who are staying with their Aunt and Uncle in Dundee, close to the Battlefields of Rorke’s Drift and Isandwala.
A full day of driving in excellent conditions with only trucks and the occasional car on the road. I think most people in South Africa drive as it saves them fuel costs and hours behind the wheel, but we’re experienced African travellers now and nothing phases up…..Ben, Alex and the Colonel!
Arrived at around 8pm to be greeted with Lasagne and wine, ate and went to bed in preparation for a big day tomorrow.
End of day location: Dundee, South Africa
Distance covered: 1050kms
Location: Beaufort West, South Africa
Weather: Clear blue skies and sunshine. 20°c
Status: All having a very good trip north towards the next part!
Left Beaufort West at 7.00am to start the long trip north towards Patrick and Sarah who are staying with their Aunt and Uncle in Dundee, close to the Battlefields of Rorke’s Drift and Isandwala.
A full day of driving in excellent conditions with only trucks and the occasional car on the road. I think most people in South Africa drive as it saves them fuel costs and hours behind the wheel, but we’re experienced African travellers now and nothing phases up…..Ben, Alex and the Colonel!
Arrived at around 8pm to be greeted with Lasagne and wine, ate and went to bed in preparation for a big day tomorrow.
End of day location: Dundee, South Africa
Distance covered: 1050kms
2nd August 08
Date: 2nd Aug 08
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Weather: Scattered clouds, thundery and then blue skies again! 20°c
Status: Colonel – Ready to start moving again, Ben – missing not having Bre with me…again!
Have spent the last few days in Cape Town doing all manner of things, the first of which was the hardest to do!
We were supposed to go horse riding along Long Beach for Bre’s final morning together with me on this part of the expedition, but as the weather was windy, thundery and generally yucky the organisers called us to say it wouldn’t be possible. Not very happy as we’d looked forward to it for days so will now have to wait until we meet up again in a months time.
So headed back to Saltycrax where the rest of the Watkins family were staying and helped Bre pack all of her things back into her backpack as we’re going our own ways for the next few weeks while I meet up with some other friends from the UK and she heads with the others up the east coast of South Africa in their hire car.
It was another horrible day as we had to say goodbye to each other, this being the second time on the trip so far and much harder than the first! Days like these should no happen….
Alex and I made our way back into Cape Town, visited some shops to grab the last of the essentials we’ll need for the next few days and headed out to grab a Mexican dinner on Long Street. Met up with a very good friend Katie who I met years ago in Port Edward and her super chap Michael, we ended up spending most of the evening together and then off to meet another friend Duncan who now owns a club in the city. Entry was of course free on the guest list and we all chatted away until the small hours. Most excellent.
Up bright and early with a slight hangover and then on the road leaving the stunning city of Cape Town behind, the N1 being our direction north towards Bloemfontein where we’ll meet up with Patrick and Sarah again (Patroling Africa), the guys who drove down with us from Ghana.
Stopped off in the town of Beaufort West and found a campsite, cooked over an open fire again, awesome to be back in the wilds, watched a dvd under the stars. Bed
End of day location: Beaufort West, South Africa
Distance covered: 464kms
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Weather: Scattered clouds, thundery and then blue skies again! 20°c
Status: Colonel – Ready to start moving again, Ben – missing not having Bre with me…again!
Have spent the last few days in Cape Town doing all manner of things, the first of which was the hardest to do!
We were supposed to go horse riding along Long Beach for Bre’s final morning together with me on this part of the expedition, but as the weather was windy, thundery and generally yucky the organisers called us to say it wouldn’t be possible. Not very happy as we’d looked forward to it for days so will now have to wait until we meet up again in a months time.
So headed back to Saltycrax where the rest of the Watkins family were staying and helped Bre pack all of her things back into her backpack as we’re going our own ways for the next few weeks while I meet up with some other friends from the UK and she heads with the others up the east coast of South Africa in their hire car.
It was another horrible day as we had to say goodbye to each other, this being the second time on the trip so far and much harder than the first! Days like these should no happen….
Alex and I made our way back into Cape Town, visited some shops to grab the last of the essentials we’ll need for the next few days and headed out to grab a Mexican dinner on Long Street. Met up with a very good friend Katie who I met years ago in Port Edward and her super chap Michael, we ended up spending most of the evening together and then off to meet another friend Duncan who now owns a club in the city. Entry was of course free on the guest list and we all chatted away until the small hours. Most excellent.
Up bright and early with a slight hangover and then on the road leaving the stunning city of Cape Town behind, the N1 being our direction north towards Bloemfontein where we’ll meet up with Patrick and Sarah again (Patroling Africa), the guys who drove down with us from Ghana.
Stopped off in the town of Beaufort West and found a campsite, cooked over an open fire again, awesome to be back in the wilds, watched a dvd under the stars. Bed
End of day location: Beaufort West, South Africa
Distance covered: 464kms
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